Cesis: Medieval Latvian Town

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Cesis is a small Latvian town that is home to a 13th-century castle. Cesis Castle is the heart of this town in northeastern Latvia. Its red turret sits stop the stone fortress, like a sporty hat.

Greenery envelopes the town with swooping tree branches hiding the blue sky. The Guaja River—Latvia’s largest river—snakes through the town. However, the red-roofed buildings are the most prominent feature (besides the hulking castle).

I visited this medieval town in September when summer still ruled. The leaves had not turned crimson or burgundy yet. It reminded me of Tartu and Hay-on-Wye, with its medieval buildings and riverside parks. (Check out my town highlights video of Cesis on my Instagram page.)

Park Stroll

The best way to enter the city is lazily walking along the lake. Elegant swans float past, gliding like feathery skaters. Toddlers busily push their tricycles along the paths.

Benches offer residents and visitors a place to observe nature or people-watch. You can also study the castle tower and wall if you angle your body.

(Take a virtual walk in the park with me by watching my highlights video on my Instagram page.)

Medieval Castle

There are 140 medieval castles in Latvia, but Cesis Castle is one of the country’s best-preserved structures. With its iconic red-roofed turret and prominent location on a hill, the castle dominates the town’s landscape. 

The Livonian Brothers of the Sword laid the foundation of Cesis Castle 800 years ago. However, thanks to a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577, the castle was partially destroyed. It was later rebuilt.

Today, you can see the ancient Vend castle mound, tour the Order castle ruins, and visit the 18th-century manor house (which is operated as a museum).

Castle Tour

Today, you can tour the castle interior to see furnishings and wall paintings. Descend into the dungeons to see how criminals were imprisoned. And climb circling staircases to the castle’s towers to get the lay of the land (and sweeping views of the countryside).

(Note: Multiple options exist for a guided tour of the castle and museum. I would have preferred the two-hour candle-lit evening tour of Cesis and the medieval castle (if I had stayed overnight in Cesis). Participants carry medieval lanterns with real candles to light their way along the cobblestone streets, parks, and squares. It costs 55 euros.)

A costumed Cesis Castle servant will escort you through the castle garden. Discover the castle from its courtyard, feel the historic aura, and carry a lantern to climb the Western tower.

The Museum documents who the first inhabitants of Cesis were. Study what life was like in the Middle Ages, view the “Cēsis – a symbol of Latvian history” interactive exhibit, see the restored 18th-19th century castle’s interior, and climb the steps to the castle’s Lademaher Tower to enjoy scenic views.

Castle Park

The castle grounds feature a sprawling lawn and a medieval playground for children. According to the castle website, the castle garden is like a bridge connecting the ancient atmosphere of the Livonian Order Castle to the elegance and mystery of the manor house.

Stroll through the cemetery, order a lager at the old brewery, and peek inside the Transfiguration of Christ Orthodox Church. The castle grounds also feature the 18th-century Castle Manor House, home to the Cēsis History and Art Museum.

Lakeside Rest

You could easily spend a day in Cesis just enjoying nature. Pull on your boots to hike the hills and ravines of Cēsis Castle Park. This landscaped park includes a lake where swans lazily float. Built more than 170 years ago, the landscapers installed a fountain in the lake and planted groves of trees, bushes, and flowers.

Walking down the steep stone steps away from the castle, see cupid statues posed on stoops. You’re transported back to the 19th century and the age of Romanticism through the placement of bridges, pavilions, and sculptures.

Old Town 

My favorite part of visiting Cesis was walking through the old town. But you’ll need to wear sneakers to avoid slipping or falling on the cobblestone streets. They are lethal after a rainstorm.

There is a blend of architectural styles, including thatched-roof cottages and brightly painted wooden houses. My favorite was a home painted bright yellow. Weave your way along the skinny streets and admire the flower boxes.

St. John’s Church

You’ll see a white church with a 65-meter bell tower when you reach the main square. You’ve reached St. John’s Evangelical Lutheran Church. (Take my virtual church tour on my Youtube page.)

You can climb the tower for a 2 euro fee. But you might be taking your life in your hands because you’ll need to navigate the dark, steep staircase on your way up.

Holocaust Memorial

The most moving object I saw in Cesis was an art installation of seven pairs of shoes. The town dedicated this monument on July 4, 2022, on the Day of Commemoration of the Victims of the Jewish Genocide in Latvia. The artwork is placed in a public space at Road One Nine Four One.  

“Until the summer of 1941, about 200 Jews were living in Cesis and its surroundings. At the beginning of August, they were arrested and murdered on the night of August 10th in the woods near Lake Ninieris,” according to www.jews.lv. “Krista and Reinis Dzudzilo, the authors of the art object, aim to bring Jews back to the present, to history, and everyday life in Cesis, allowing their memories to return to their former homes.”

Walk different streets of Cesis to find the sculptures where Jews lived before the Holocaust. Cesis residents donated shoes for the artists to use as prototypes for the sculptures. Collect a special map of the city, available at the Cesis Tourist Information Center, to locate the sculptures and the former places of residence of Cesis Jews. 

Known as “Breaking the Silence,” the project was implemented by the Foundation to support the “Bonfire of Conscience” exhibition in Cesis in cooperation with the Museum “Jews in Latvia.”

Tourism Information

Stop in at the Cesis Tourism Information Centre, which is located in the old town between the Cēsis New Castle and St. Johns Church. You can collect information on tourism sites in Cēsis Municipality, Latvia, and Gauja National Park.