Mdina: Malta’s Silent City

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Mdina is the Silent City that whispers its secrets when you visit Malta. Residents deserted the city after the 1565 Great Siege of Malta. The name Mdina comes from the Arabic word madīnah which means “town” or “city”. 

From the moment you enter the main city gate, you are enclosed in its fortified walls. Whether you rode in a karozzin (a horse-drawn carriage) or walked across the bridge, you are transported back to the times of the Romans, Greeks, Byzantines, and Normans. 

Founded by the Phoenicians, Mdina served as the capital of Malta from antiquity until the 16th century. In 1565, the Maltese named Valletta its capital after the Knights of St. Johns defeated the Ottomans’ attack on the island.

I visited Mdina in January as part of a five-day holiday in Malta. This island is located just 60 miles from Sicily. 

Historical Site

Mdina is a world apart from modern Malta. Malta protected Mdina as a cultural treasure like the chef who preserves the summer’s bounty in a glass jar. 

Due to its fortified walls and historic architecture, Mdina allows you to imagine life in the 16th century, when Charles François de Mondion rebuilt it in the Baroque style in 1724. 

Since cars are restricted inside Mdina, modernity is an unwelcome visitor within its preserved walls.

Wander down the skinny lanes. Back up against a wall to let a horse canter past you. Press your palm against a 1,000-year-old wooden door. Gaze in the window of a Baroque church. 

Tentative World Heritage Site

Malta has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Valetta (the capital) and Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum (an underground burial site).

Since 1998, Mdina (Citta Vecchia) has been part of Malta’s Tentative list to qualify for inclusion in the World Heritage List.

“The townscape is characterized by Baroque architecture, most notable the St Paul’s Cathedral built between 1697 and 1702.”—UNESCO

Unlike Valletta and the Three Cities flanking the ocean, Mdina is landlocked. It sits on a hill in the center of Malta’s main island. The Phoenicians founded Mdina in the 8th century.

Transportation

There are multiple ways to visit Mdina, including a guided tour. But the main island of Malta is small. 

I traveled to Mdina on a bus as the public transportation system in Malta is excellent. A ticket costs 2 euros. 

The bus drops you off in Rabat. It is a quick two-minute walk to Mdina.

Mdina Gate

Climbing the hill to the fortress city on a hill, I felt awe. Its golden walls shimmer in the sunlight, and the lush lawn encircles them like an emerald necklace. 

You must cross over a bridge to reach the city gates. (The Mdina Gate is also called the Main Gate and the Vilhena Gate.)

A flood of people may flow over the bridge. Alternatively, you may cross alone. But don’t be surprised to hear the clopping of horses behind you. The carriage tours run non-stop in Mdina.

Horse-Drawn Carriages

Book a tour in a horse-drawn carriage if you are nervous about walking the cobble-stoned streets or don’t want to get lost within the maze of skinny streets and dark alleys. The typical cost is 25 to 30 euros.

The karozzin is a traditional Maltese mode of transportation. Your guide will provide a running commentary on the city’s famous sights.

St. Paul’s Cathedral

St. Paul’s Cathedral is one of Malta’s greatest ecclesiastical gems. Baroque architect Lorenzo Gafà designed the building in 1702. (An earthquake destroyed the old church.) 

“Its ceiling and dome are decorated with exquisite and elaborate frescoes, whilst the floor is carpeted with inlaid tombstones and marble slabs.”—Visit Malta

The cathedral dominates Mdina’s ancient streets with its magnificent ornate facade. Notably, the cathedral is dedicated to Saint Paul.

St. Paul’s Cathedral was built in the area where Saint Paul converted Roman governor Publius to Christianity. (Fun fact: The cathedral was built atop the ruins of a 4th-century church.)

Mdina Cathedral Museum

Now if you want to learn more about this institution, buy a ticket to the Mdina Cathedral Museum. Roam the halls of a sumptuous Baroque building that traces its origins back to the early 1700s.

The museum initially operated as a seminary.

“In 1969, it was officially inaugurated as a museum, preserving and showcasing a remarkable collection of artworks and historical treasures.”—Mdina Cathedral Museum

A ticket (adult) costs 10 euros.

Carmelite Priory

Visit the Carmelite priory in Mdina to experience the Carmelite way of life. The Friars gather daily in the church to celebrate the Eucharist and the Liturgy of the Hours at different times.

The church is free to enter. You will see paintings by Mattia Preti, Stefano Erardi, Michele Bellanti, and Giuseppe Calì. 

Gaze on critical sculptural works, such as the ornately carved and gilded wooden frame around the titular painting designed by Pietro Paolo Troisi. Maltese sculptor Andrea Imbroll created the processional statue of the Virgin of Mount Carmel.

Palazzo Falson

After you leave the church museum, you might consider touring Palazzo Falson. The 13th-century palazzo is set in the heart of medieval Mdina.

Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher OBE owned the house. He was an artist, soldier, collector, and philanthropist. Gollcher renamed the palace as “The Norman House”.

“The Palazzo was built in the early 13th century, on the site of “La Rocca”, a building which was part of the defensive structure of Mdina in the Arab period (870-1091 AD), and further back to the Roman period prior to 870 AD.”—Palazzo Falson

After he died in 1962, he left the property to the Captain Olof Frederick Gollcher OBE Art and Archaeological Foundation. The Maltese Heritage Foundation started the extensive renovation project in 2002. The historic house museum opened as Palazzo Falson in May 2007.

Ancient Citadel

In closing, Mdina was one of my favorite places in Malta. Time is frozen in this medieval city. Wander its skinny streets and dark alleys. Sit in a pew at the priority to meditate. Feel the sun’s shadow follow your passage. Try to find a cat (which I failed miserably).