San Sebastián de La Gomera: Explore Gomera’s Capital

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San Sebastián de La Gomera is a town in the Canary Islands that invites you to slow down and wander aimlessly through its historic quarter.

No turn is wrong because you want to get hopelessly lost in La Gomera’s capital. Pause at a public square to look at the city’s steep walls and imagine yourself sipping coffee at sunrise. Look up at the open wooden balconies and pretend to flutter your fan. Bend down to pet the black cat you discovered lazily sleeping in the Spanish sun.

Colorful Town

If your spirits rise when you see bold colors, then San Sebastián de La Gomera will delight you. Residents paint their houses in bold shades, including lemon yellow and rose.

But the traditional style is the standard—beige and brown. I marveled at the butcher’s business. He painted his storefront in purple!

Historic Gem

I don’t know anything about the people who lived in these houses more than 500 years ago …. nor do I know the stories of today’s residents.

But San Sebastian’s colorful houses made me imagine what it must be like to live here, enclosed in a time capsule.

“The city emerged around a natural bay and to this day has preserved numerous places and monuments of interest, such as the church of La Asunción, the Pozo de la Aguada and the Torre del Conde (Tower of the Count).”—Spain.info

Reserve an hour to walk up and down the skinny streets to investigate the colonial architecture. But I could have wandered for hours in San Sebastián’s historical quarter.

I also recommend repeating this walking tour of the old town at sunset. You might discover a ghost following in your footsteps as you step inside the town’s oldest church.

Iglesia de la Asuncion

The town built the original church on Camino Real in 1450, but residents still celebrate the happiest times of their lives—weddings and baptisms—at this church.

Enjoy the stone archways, the bell tower and the primitive religious art. You can also review the painting of an old sea battle. Since admission is free, you might want to sit in a pew to rest or meditate.

Christopher Columbus

San Sebastián celebrates its ties to Christopher Columbus with a week of celebrations in September to commemorate the sailor’s arrival. The city is called “Isla Colombina” due to its historical links with the discovery of America.

“San Sebastián is famous for being the last place in Europe Christopher Columbus stopped before crossing the Atlantic Ocean on his journey to the New World.”—La Gomera

The Niña, the Pinta and the Santa María dropped anchor in the port of San Sebastián on September 6, 1492.

Casa de Colon

You can visit the house where Columbus stayed in the historic quarter. Now operated as the Columbus House Museum, it features Pre-Columbian art from Peru and other exhibitions.

You can also pose with Columbus in the plaza. The explorer’s statue gazes at the harbor where he once docked his three ships.

San Sebastián Market

You might stop at the municipal market if you are hungry for a snack. While this food market lacks multiple vendors and choices, you can find a good selection of fruits and vegetables. We visited on Saturday, when you would expect heavy traffic.

We found a handful of stalls selling flowers, produce, and food. The municipal market is also connected to grocery stores.

Torre del Conde

After you buy takeout or food from the market, grab your picnic lunch and spread a blanket at this historic plaza.

Torre del Conde is a 15th-century fortress. Local lords took refuge here during the rebellion on La Gomera. While other buildings used to surround it, the brown and white-pocked tower is the only one that remains standing. It became a Historic and Artistic Monument in 1990.

Climb the steps to the second floor and survey the island from the second-story balcony. Then, watch the kids play soccer on the green.

Cristo de San Sebastián de La Gomera

This statue of Jesus (Cristo de San Sebastián de La Gomera) sits on one of the hills of the Machal ravine outside of the city. You must trek up the steep incline, as the path is closed to cars.

Park your car below on the TF-713 road (Carretera del Sur). It is a 1.9-mile loop.

“Generally considered an easy route, it takes an average of 58 min to complete. This trail is great for hiking and running, and it’s unlikely you’ll encounter many other people while exploring.”—All Trails

This site is open year-round and offers panoramic views of San Sebastián and the ocean.

Whale Watching Tour

We booked a three-hour whale-watching tour departing from San Sebastian’s Marina. I can highly recommend Excursiones Tina. The tour costs 42 euros.

The two women (captain and guide) provided commentary and helped us see sperm and short-finned pilot whales on our trip. We also saw dolphins!

“The waters that link La Gomera and its neighbour, Tenerife, have been declared the first Whale Heritage Site in all of Europe.”— La Gomera

Our boat’s passengers became silent as our guide spotted the first whale during our journey. We strained our neck to see their heads or fins penetrate the surface. We even saw a mother and her baby whales. My niece Karen took the best photos of the whales as she had a camera with a zoom lens.

Dia de Los Reyes Magos

We stayed in San Sebastian de La Gomera in early January. We were unexpectedly surprised that La Gomera’s capital celebrates Dia de Los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day) with a citywide parade on the eve of the national holiday.

Singers, dancers, and costumed performers lined the street before our hotel. Families stood on the sidewalk to watch.

“The Kings, accompanied by their pages, arrive in decorated floats, tossing candies and surprises to the excited children and adults waiting for them.”—La Gomera

The procession ended at the open-air theater, where families gathered to enjoy musical performances and dances.

City’s Patron Saint

San Sebastián de Gomera is named after its patron saint (Saint Sebastian). But don’t confuse Gomera’s capital with San Sebastián, located in the north of Spain in Basque country.

While I have not toured this Spanish city, I did visit San Sebastián del Oeste in Mexico. The town is a Pueblo Magico. Founded in 1605, this historic village is nestled in the hills of the Sierra Madre mountain range. Silver miners settled the town. Visitors can see the miners’ original homes and shops. In addition, the historic church features paintings, statues, and artifacts. 

Summary

San Sebastián de La Gomera is an ideal location to stay two or three nights and tour the island. To visit, you must take the ferry from Tenerife, which has multiple daily trips.

I wish I could declare a favorite thing to do in San Sebastián, but I loved many of our pursuits (e.g., a walking tour of the old town, whale watching, watching the Three Kings parade, and eating tapas on the harbor).

You’ll have to visit San Sebastián yourself and choose!