Marais Walking Tour in Paris

Marais is a Parisian neighborhood located in the 4th arrondissement that tempts you to turn back the clock, wander down its narrow streets, and marvel at its mansions.

Once home to French kings and aristocrats in the 16th and 17th centuries, Marais lost its cachet after the royals departed. But the Place de Vosges (formerly known as Place Royal before the French Revolution) constantly reminded residents and visitors of its illustrious past.

Friends of Marais

But three centuries later, the neighborhood’s historic mansions were in a state of neglect. Marais was viewed as a slum.

“In the 1960s, the Friends of the Marais, aware that a huge part of their architectural heritage was endangered, lobbied City Hall to refurbish the crumbling mansions.”—National Geographic

But French Minister of Culture André Malraux saved the district from the wrecking ball by implementing a heritage conservation law in 1962.

In 1974, the New York Times published an article entitled “The Marais: Art, Elegance, Pickles, Poverty—and A Festival. The writer capsulized the district’s split personality as a result of historic preservation a decade earlier: “ . . . This incongruousness, which startles and delights at the same time, is the essence of the Marais. For centuries, it has fused the sacred and the profane, the exquisite and the hideous, the fortunate and the impoverished, as no other area of Paris manages to do. 

“A walk through the Marais provides the best kind of pleasure, the unexpected kind.”—New York Times 

Marais Metamorphosis (Again)

Fifty-one years later, I discovered that the Marais had undergone a remarkable transformation, becoming a hip Parisian district.

My guide led our Marais walking tour down an alley, past mansions, through gardens, and inside palaces. He said you could buy a Marais apartment for a pittance. Now, Parisian realtors describe the market for exceptional properties near the Place des Vosges as still reaching peaks. (Click this link to read my Paris walking tour in the Montmartre neighborhood.)

Hotel particulier

I also learned why many historic buildings in Paris are called hotels, even though they are not places of lodging. 

The term hotel particulier refers to a grand private residence. Wealthy or noble families owned these historic buildings. Several such buildings have been converted into museums in Le Marais.

Le Marais Architecture

My favorite part of visiting Le Marais was walking down the alleys. I learned that the walls of medieval buildings were not built straight. Instead, they leaned into the alleyway. So, don’t be surprised if you find yourself tilting sideways as you gaze up at a building.

Le Marais is renowned for its historic buildings, including the Hôtel de Sens, Hôtel Carnavalet, and Hôtel de Sully. Wander aimlessly up and down connecting streets near the Place de Vosges. If the gates are open, you can peek inside the historic mansions. You’ll see gardens, courtyards, and sculptures.

I hope you discover a brown and white “half-timbered” building. Located at 3 Rue Volta in Le Marais, it is one of the oldest houses in Paris, featuring a half-timbered facade, narrow profile, and gables.

Musee Historie de Paris

Initially built in the mid-16th century for Jacques des Ligneris, President of the Paris Parlement, the Hôtel Carnavalet is one of the oldest private mansions in Paris. The house was sold several times. 

During Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann’s massive renovation of Paris (1853-1870), the mansion was purchased by the City of Paris in 1866 and made into the capital’s historical museum.

The Musee Historie de Paris opened to the public on February 25, 1880, in the Hôtel Carnavalet. Admission is free.

Ideally, you should spend at least two hours touring the museum, as it features many rooms and periods to explore.

The museum’s architecture now offers a history spanning more than 450 years. You will learn the story of Paris, from prehistory to the present.

Galerie des Enseignes

My favorite part of the museum was its gallery of signs. At a time before street numbers were used, merchants used picture signs to indicate the services a shop provided. 

They were essential landmarks. The sign collection of the Musée Carnavalet evokes the atmosphere of Paris streets.

“Merchants attracted customers’ attention not just by shouting but also through images, which explains the beauty and ingenuity of these signs, featuring griffins, mermaids and black cats.”

I spent a long time in the sign gallery studying the bright colors and clever images that adorned Parisian storefronts.

Maison de Victor Hugo 

In 1832, Victor Hugh moved his family into their new home at 6 Place de Vosges. His Parisian apartment was located within the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée. He lived there for 16 years until 1848. You can see portraits of Victor Hugo and his family.

The Maison de Victor Hugo aims to present a well-rounded account of the many facets of the man who was Victor Hugo, who was a writer, artist, designer, and decorator.

“It was his grandson Jean Hugo’s wish that the museum should become the repository for the poet’s private and family memory.”—Maison de Victor Hugo

Entrance to the museum is free. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. I highly suggest visiting, even if you only have 30 minutes. It is rare to see a house where an artist once lived.

Time is frozen in this abode. You’ll see Hugo’s treasured paintings, drawings, prints, and objects. The author’s library features a collection of manuscripts and archives. The museum boasts over 50,000 works of art.

Le Mur des Justes

Le Marais is home to Le Mur des Justes (Wall of the Righteous). Located at the Shoah Memorial, it honors French citizens and allies who risked their lives to save Jews during the Holocaust.

“The Wall of the Righteous, located in the walkway adjacent to the Memorial, bears the names of more than 3,900 men and women who, at great personal risk, contributed to the rescue of Jews in France during World War II.”

These individuals have been awarded the title of “Righteous Among the Nations” by the Yad Vashem Memorial Museum in Jerusalem since 1963. To date, more than 24,000 people worldwide have received this distinction.

Musee Picasso Paris

Housed in a stunning hôtel particulier, the museum displays the works of the Spanish artist and stages special exhibits. You can also tour the garden or eat lunch at the cafe.

The museum displays 3,000 works by Picasso. It also includes the artist’s private collection of paintings by Matisse, Degas, and Cezanne.

Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis

Don’t be surprised if you are treated to a free “open-air” concert outside the doors of St. Paul’s Catholic Church. I walked by during the afternoon to see a pianist performing on the sidewalk.

Located on Rue Saint-Antoine, the church features a red front door! Jesuit architects built the church in the 17th century. It is the first Baroque-style church in Paris. If you have the time, take a walk inside the church to see the paintings by Delacroix, Jacques de Létin, and Simon Vouet.

Place de Vosges

Place de Vosges is the district’s backyard. Residents and visitors lay sunbathing on the grass, floated toy boats in fountains, chased dogs on pebble sidewalks, and ate croissants from paper bags.

The weather was unseasonably hot in mid-June, so pedestrians claimed every bench and open swatch of lawn. 

Notably, Place de Vosges is a royal square. Henry IV built the square from 1605 to 1612; it is the oldest square in Paris. (The other four royal squares are Place des Victoires, Place Dauphine, Place Vendôme, and Place de la Concorde.)

The park is an enclosed square. You can enter it via a main street or one of two streets running beneath pavilions.

You should end your walking tour in Place de Vosges, preferably holding a bag with a warm croissant. Now is your time to soak up the Parisian sunshine and people-watch!