Rennes: Explore Old Town’s Half-Timbered Houses

Rennes is the capital of Brittany. I visited in June, taking the express train from Paris. Although the journey lasted only two hours, I felt as though I had traveled back to medieval times.

“Rennes is a truly eclectic cityscape, shaped by its colourful history – its half-timbered houses hark back to the Middle Ages …”—Brittany Tourism

Vieux Rennes

The heart of Rennes is Vieux Rennes, also known as Centre Historique. I wandered down its maze of narrow cobblestone streets early in the morning, looking for a patisserie. 

What I discovered was a sweet surprise, as I am an architecture enthusiast, particularly drawn to styles such as mid-century modern, Art Deco, Art Nouveau, or Usonian. 

My favorite cities include a distinctive style, such as the thatched-roof cottages in the Cotswolds or the Georgian rowhouses in Old Town Alexandria, Virginia.

I can now add the traditional half-timbered houses of Rennes to my list. This construction method utilizes a wooden framework, typically made of oak, filled with various materials for the walls.

Maisons à Colombages

This style of French architecture is known as maisons à colombages. I saw one in my walking tour of the Marais neighborhood of Paris, compared to 280 half-timbered houses in Rennes. 

I don’t know why this type of architecture fascinates me. But I love its singular style of alternating wood and plaster stripes.

This construction process starts with a cagelike structure using mortise and tenon joints, reinforced by wooden pegs. Builders used cob (a mixture of clay, straw, and water) to fill the spaces (or panels) between the load-bearing timbers. 

My favorite colors for half-timbered houses are brown and cream. (This is no surprise since I am a big fan of the medieval Tudor architecture in England and Wales.)

But I was fascinated to see the wood planks painted red and yellow on some half-timbered houses in Rennes.

I thought the black and white tuxedo cat posed in the window of the old timbered building could have been a Rembrandt painting. (If you’d like to see this French cat listening to a song from the musical Hamilton, click this link for my video on my FemaleSoloTrek YouTube channel.)

Great Fire of 1720

Rennes’ fame as a preserved French medieval city might have been lost due to the Great Fire of 1720.

Started at a carpenter’s workshop on December 22, the Great Fire of 1720 blazed for days. This fire destroyed over 1,000 homes. 

“In Europe, in modern times, the fire in Rennes was an exceptional event. If urban fires were far from rare, very few caused such significant destruction.”—David Garrioch (Rennes 1720: The Fire)

The town steward ordered the destruction of houses to create firewalls. Thankfully, rain came after eight days. But 30 streets were destroyed.

Luckily, many half-timbered homes in Place Sainte-Anne did not burn down. This square dates back to the Romans. During the Middle Ages, Place Sainte-Anne stood outside the city gates. Today, the square is home to many lively bars and cafes. I recommend ordering a café crème and sitting on a patio to watch the stream of people walk by.

Porte Mordelaise

The best place to start your tour of Rennes is at the old city gate, known as Porte Mordelaise. This small section of the oldest quarter can be found around Place Saint-Anne. You’ll also see the old half-timbered houses.

I suggest you wander in Vieux Rennes early in the morning when the streets are empty. You can photograph the buildings without people in them. 

Place des Lices

I toured this empty market hall on a Monday. But I could imagine the halls filled with people, including children, licking an ice cream cone.

Once an arena for jousting tournaments, the Place des Lices organizes a Saturday market. Under dozens of red tents, you’ll find vendors selling fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, and local cheeses. 

“Every Saturday morning, for four centuries, the city has hosted France’s 2nd largest market, the Marché des Lices: a cave of the finest, wholesome wonders.” —Rennes Tourist Office

Cider and crepes are both specialties of Brittany. So you must try a sausage wrapped in a buckwheat pancake for your lunch.

Come back on the first Sunday of the month to attend Marché à Manger. A group of Rennes chefs (called Nourritures) also hosts a big culinary festival in October.

Dining 

I recommend visiting the old town in the evening to dine or enjoy a glass of cider. Many half-timbered homes have been converted to restaurants, cafes, and bars. 

The Brittany Tourist Office recommends four venues. Relax on comfortable benches at the cocktail bar, Le Peacock. Eat crêpes outside year-round at a seat in the heated courtyard of Crêperie la Rozell. Dine on local and seasonal Bretagne food around the ‘Hôtel Dieu’ old cloister. Visit Bistro Origines, in the former maternity hospital, where you can listen to live music and drink a hand-crafted beer, brewed in the former operating theatre.

Creperie

I chose to eat lunch at La Sarrasine Creperie. There were dozens of savory and sweet crepes on the menu. I finally chose the famous Bretagne sausage on a buckwheat crepe with a spicy mustard.

For dessert, I treated myself to a crêpe flambe. Like the waitress lighting my crepe on fire, my love of Rennes’ old town was caught alight on my vacation here.