The Ultimate 23-Day New Zealand Itinerary: South & North Island by Train & Road

This 23-day New Zealand itinerary took me across both the South and North Islands by train and road, blending iconic journeys with slow, immersive travel. From one of the world’s most scenic train rides through the Southern Alps to a sweeping road trip connecting coastal towns, alpine landscapes, and Māori cultural sites, each day revealed a different side of Aotearoa. Rather than rushing between highlights, this journey focused on seeing New Zealand deeply—through its landscapes, local culture, and small towns that stay with you long after the trip ends.

My first stop after my 24-hour journey to New Zealand was Auckland on January 1, which is best seen on foot. I joined a Free Auckland Walking Tour led by Darcy, a native Aucklander, and followed the city from shoreline to sky, from Māori navigation stories etched in tile to women who chained themselves to Parliament steps to claim the vote.

This walk stitched together layers: a thinking Māori figure gazing toward the sea, a historic Ferry Building, a modernist Auckland Art Gallery, a red-light alley turned art lane, silver ferns glowing as navigational guides, cafes and beer halls on trendy Vulcan Lane, and a jumper from the rooftop of the Sky Tower. At Albert Park, I saw trees gifted from around the world framing the city’s Art Gallery.

After completing my city sightseeing, I decided to rent an eBike cruiser from Bionic Bikes to see Auckland’s parks and waterfront. From my starting point at Orakei, I rode along the Te Ara Ki Uta ki Tai bike trail, then followed Point England Road to the Riverside Reserve park on the waterfront. I had to ride on the road after the dedicated bike trail ended.

Luckily, Kiwis remind you to stay on the LEFT side of the road so you don’t kill yourself. I loved riding along Wai o Taiki Bay and watching the dogs playing on the beach. I also saw beautiful horses at the Meadowbank Pony Club.

Eating Tip: I recommend you visit Duck Island Instant Cream in Auckland. Order two scoops of the mulberry sorbet.

If you are visiting Christchurch, I highly recommend the Free Christchurch Walking Tour. Our guide James from Green Kiwi Tours took us on a whirlwind 2-hour tour to see the iconic heritage buildings, including the historic Arts Centre Te Matatiki Toi Ora, McLean’s Mansion, Christchurch Cathedral, the transitional Christchurch Cathedral, and New Regent Street.

After the 2011 earthquake, large parts of Christchurch were damaged or demolished. Building sites were fenced off and empty. It was emotionally heavy places to move through. Christchurch embraced “transitional urbanism” — temporary uses for empty lots while rebuilding plans evolved. 

As a result, you see vibrant street art that tells local stories of loss and resilience. Many murals are by local and national artists, especially Māori creators. Christchurch also invited international street artists, particularly through curated festivals.

Eating Tip: Try the afternoon tea at The George Hotel. Their lemon scone with strawberry preserves and clotted cream is delectable.

I met my friend Sharon in Christchurch where we began the Great New Zealand Adventure. She created our New Zealand road trip after reading travel books and consulting with friends. We decided to start with the five-hour TranzAlpine train journey from Christchurch to Greymouth.

It is one of New Zealand’s most spectacular rail experiences, unfolding as a moving panorama of ever-changing landscapes. Leaving the Canterbury Plains behind, the scenery gradually shifts from wide-open farmland to braided rivers and rising foothills.

One of the highlights of the journey is the open-air viewing carriage, where stepping outside brings the sounds and smells of the landscape rushing past—cold mountain air, rushing rivers, and sheer rock faces close enough to feel almost within reach. It’s an immersive way to experience the Southern Alps, with every curve of the track revealing something new.

The most thrilling part was crossing Staircase Viaduct. Suspended high above the valley floor, the train seems to float between steep mountainsides as it navigates this dramatic stretch of track. The train reaches its highest point at Arthur’s Pass, where a brief stop allows passengers to take in the alpine setting and appreciate the engineering feat of carving a railway through such rugged terrain.

From there, we began our descent toward the West Coast. By the time the TranzAlpine rolls into Greymouth, the journey feels like far more than transportation—it’s an unforgettable passage through the heart of New Zealand’s wild interior.

After picking up our rental car, we spent the afternoon driving to Franz Josef. We stopped at Hokitika enroute.

The next day, our first stop was Franz Josef Glacier, where a short walk leads to a lookout facing the glacier high in the Southern Alps. Even from a distance, the scale of the ice-carved valley and retreating glacier is both dramatic and sobering.

The next stop is Lake Matheson, which is famous for its mirror-like reflections of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman on calm mornings. The easy forest loop ends at viewing platforms where mountains, sky, and ancient trees blend seamlessly into the dark, glassy water.

Our third stop is Ship Creek. We hiked along a boardwalk that winds through dense kahikatea swamp forest before emerging onto wind-sculpted coastal dunes. The contrast between rainforest, sand, and the crashing Tasman Sea makes this one of the West Coast’s most unexpected stops.

At Haast Pass, we discover the Blue Pools. This walk crosses suspension bridges above an impossibly clear glacial river in Haast Pass. On sunny days, the water glows turquoise, revealing smooth stones and drifting trout far below.

We started our morning in Wanaka with a long 1.5-hour climb up the Mount Iron Loop Track, scrambling over rocks and hiking a steep incline. But what a view at the summit with wider views over the ski town, Lake Wanaka, and the surrounding mountain ranges.

In the evening, we took a long stroll around Lake Wanaka. Blue light bathed the mountain ranges. Our quest was to find #ThatWanakaTree, which sits on the lake, silhouetted against the Southern Alps. It represents resilience, natural beauty, and hope, often photographed at sunrise or sunset. This little tree gained global fame after a 2014 award-winning Geographic photograph and the viral hashtag #ThatWanakaTree. It was a day of quiet New Zealand beauty, big landscapes, and a lot of effort tramping to earn the view.

Eating Tip: You’ll love the drive into the country to eat at the Bistro Gentil. The menu features French cuisine. I recommend the market fish prepared with prawns, creamy spinach, crispy wild rice, and almonds.

We stopped at two small towns on our road trip from Wanaka to Queenstown. Both were such a contrast to NZ’s capital of thrills. We stopped briefly in Cardrona, famous for the historic Cardrona Hotel, Model T touring car, old-time gas pump, and iconic red telephone box.

Our second stop was Arrowtown, an old mining town created in the 19th century. It had a Main Street lined with historic homes and cottages, quiet lanes, a town library, a museum, and quaint shops and cafes. I didn’t know I needed this stopover until I experienced it. I loved this chance to wander in these small NZ towns, take a deep breath of the crisp mountain air, and slow down. 

I fulfilled a bucket-list travel destination by visiting Milford Sound. We hired Luxe Tours, a family-run NZ company, for our 12-hour adventure from Queenstown. Our guide was Tommy. He was passionate about the locale. It took us five hours to drive to Milford Sound, but he stopped at several scenic sights along the way.

Although the actual cruise journey is only 90 minutes, the scenery is surreal. We were on board the Milford Sovereign, operated by Real New Zealand tours. It had rained all day, so the waterfalls were gushing over the mountains. We reached one point where the wind was howling, and I could barely keep my head up. Exhilarating.

I also learned some cool facts about Milford Sound. It’s actually a fjord, not a sound. Milford Sound was carved by glaciers during the Ice Age. True “sounds” are formed by rivers, but this dramatic valley was shaped by moving ice. It has some of the world’s tallest cliffs. Mitre Peak rises over 5,500 feet (1,680 meters) straight up from the water—nearly vertical. The area can get over 20 feet of rain per year, creating hundreds of temporary waterfalls that appear after storms. Milford Sound is a must-see if you visit New Zealand!

Lake Tekapo felt like stepping into a postcard. The unreal teal-blue color of the lake is caused by “glacial flour” (extremely fine rock particles ground by glaciers from the Southern Alps, suspended in the water). I stood on the hilltop at the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd, looking at the lake as the sun began to set. The backdrop is the mountain range, rising quietly behind the lake.

Wild flowers and alpine flora dot the shoreline and hillsides. A flying fox (zipline) ride charms me. I notice that the adult “kids” can’t resist. The ultra-modern Lake Tekapo footbridge is a sleek contrast to all that natural beauty. Some places (like Lake Tekaopo) don’t need filters. This is one of them.

Kaikōura is a beautiful seaside town that was reshaped by a powerful 7.8 earthquake and has come back stronger, calmer, and more captivating than ever. I felt like I was walking on the moon when I tentatively put my foot down on each large rock. Up above, I watched the seagulls gliding on the coastal winds. Dramatic rocky coastline surrounded me on each side, carved by the Pacific. At the end, I saw scenic overlooks with endless ocean views.

Kaikōura never forgets its past and how it rebuilt the town. Come to the Kaikōura Museum to hear the town’s resilient story. The Visitor Centre provides local insights and maps. You can also walk down to see the charming historic pink Fyfee House facing the sea.

Eating Tip: Stop for a cafe latte and a bagel at Bus Stop Cafe. The green bungalow is located across from the waterfront. You can sit at a picnic table and watch the waves.

Ohau Point Seal Point is one of those rare places where wildlife encounters feel completely natural and unscripted. Along the rugged coastal rocks, furry seals stretch out in the sun while curious pups dart through tide pools, tumbling over one another in playful bursts of energy. There are no fences or staged viewpoints here—just the raw meeting of land and sea, where New Zealand fur seals live exactly as they always have, with the Pacific crashing nearby.

What makes Ohau Point especially memorable is how close you can observe without disturbing the rhythm of daily life. Baby seals play tag along narrow rock channels while adults keep a watchful eye, occasionally lifting their heads before sinking back into a lazy afternoon nap. It’s a reminder that some of the most powerful travel moments aren’t orchestrated at all—they happen when nature is left to do what it does best, on its own terms.

Our visit to Abel Tasman National Park turned into a true adventure the moment the skies opened. Rain poured steadily for most of our five-hour trek, soaking the landscape and intensifying the park’s lushness. Thankfully, plastic raincoats kept our backpacks dry as we moved along the Abel Tasman Track, winding through dense, jungle-like greenery, crossing narrow bridges, and passing forested stretches punctuated by waterfalls swollen from the storm. The rhythm of rain on leaves and the earthy scent of wet soil made the experience feel immersive and wild.

Just when it seemed the day would remain gray, the weather shifted. By the time we reached Anchorage Beach, the rain eased. The sun finally broke through, illuminating the sand and water in soft, golden light. The contrast between the stormy trek and the calm arrival at the coast made the moment especially rewarding. Some of the most memorable travel days are shaped by unpredictability.

One of my favorite surprises in Nelson was discovering historic Elliott Street—and meeting its unofficial canine ambassador, Luna. With her paws pressed against the fence and her hopeful gaze fixed on passersby, Luna seems to understand that Elliott Street invites lingering. She lives in a lovingly maintained early-20th-century bungalow surrounded by flowers, a scene that perfectly captures the spirit of this intimate neighborhood. It’s the kind of street where history doesn’t feel preserved behind glass; it’s lived in, tended to, and shared with visitors one friendly interaction at a time.

Elliott Street holds a special place in Nelson’s history as the city’s only workers’ dwellings settlement from the early 1900s. Today, its well-preserved Edwardian villas and California bungalows tell the story of architectural transition and modest prosperity, forming a cohesive streetscape protected by local planning guidelines. More than just a collection of beautiful houses, Elliott Street represents community, continuity, and social history—proof that heritage is as much about people (and dogs) as it is about buildings.

Eating Tip: Treat yourself to the five-course tasting menu at Hopsgood Restaurant. You deserve to splurge.

One of the most unexpectedly moving experiences of my trip to New Zealand was taking the Beachcomber Mail Boat Cruise in Picton. This wasn’t just a scenic ride through the Marlborough Sounds—it was a working journey. 

We watched our Captain, who also serves as the postman, pull up to small docks tucked into quiet coves and deliver mail to residents living far from roads or towns. Seeing people step onto their decks to collect bright red mail bags and wave as we passed felt like witnessing a piece of daily life that has quietly endured in these remote places.

The joy wasn’t limited to the humans. Dogs came bounding out the moment Mr. Postman arrived, fully aware that treats were part of the ritual—Oscar’s enthusiastic barking said it all. For these residents, mail arrives only once a week via NZ Post’s rural delivery, making this boat a vital link to the outside world. More than a tour, the Mail Boat Cruise offered a glimpse into the rhythms of community, resilience, and trust that define life in the Sounds. 

Eating tip: One of the most common questions I get after my 23-day New Zealand journey is: What was my favorite food? It’s nearly impossible to choose just one, but the grilled “toastie” in Picton stands out—thick, buttered bread filled with four melted cheeses and grilled to golden perfection. Expect long lines at the Toastie Lords shop.

After a 3.5-hour ferry crossing from Picton, we arrived in Wellington and headed straight to one of the city’s most celebrated institutions—Te Papa Tongarewa, New Zealand’s world-famous national museum. 

Perfectly positioned along the waterfront, Te Papa felt like an ideal introduction to the capital. It is deeply connected to the land and people of Aotearoa. Spending the afternoon there allowed us to slow down after the journey and immerse ourselves in stories that span centuries.

Te Papa is home to more than two million objects, weaving together art, natural history, New Zealand’s social and political history, mātauranga Māori (Māori knowledge), and Pacific cultures. The museum’s strength lies in how it connects these disciplines, presenting them not as separate categories but as interrelated narratives. Walking through its galleries felt both educational and emotional—an invitation to better understand New Zealand through its people, environment, and shared cultural memory. 

Eating tip: After you ride the historic cable car, you might want to stop at the Cable Top Eatery to order a café latte and a pain aux raisins. You’ll also enjoy wonderful views of the city if you dine al fresco.

Napier is the Art Deco Capital of New Zealand. Located on the North Island by the sea, Napier was destroyed in 1931 by a 7.8 Richter earthquake. The city was completely rebuilt in two years. 

Since Art Deco was the popular style in the Roaring 20s, most commercial buildings are Art Deco. I took the Art Deco Trust’s two-hour walking tour. We saw dozens of historic buildings, including the Daily Telegraph Building, the Masonic Hotel, the Municipal Theatre, and the Scinde Building. We toured the interior of the ASB Bank Building, which features Art Deco styling and decorative motifs, including Māori-inspired patterns worked into the design. 

I also loved the statue in the shopping corridor of a woman and her dog. The woman is Sheila Williams, a local figure whose father, Ernest Williams, was one of the architects involved in Napier’s post-1931 earthquake rebuilding. The Trust is a not-for-profit charity dedicated to protecting and preserving Napier’s Art Deco-era heritage buildings.

Eating Tip: I recommend two restaurants if you are staying two nights in Napier. The fresh pasta at Ilona Pasta is sublime. The family-run restaurant is a mom-and-pop business. Their two daughters serve as wait staff. Order the spaghetti bolognese! You can sample delectable wines as well as eat delicious entrees at the Mission Estate Winery. I particularly enjoyed the strawberry and mozzarella salad with champagne dressing as a starter.

Walking through Waimangu Volcanic Valley felt like stepping into another world—one that is still actively shaping itself beneath your feet. Formed by powerful volcanic eruptions, the valley unfolds as a dramatic sequence of craters, steaming lakes, and geothermal features that shift in color and form as mineral-rich waters rise from deep within the earth. Heat radiates subtly from the ground, steam curls into the air, and the landscape constantly reminds you that this is one of the youngest and most dynamic geothermal systems on the planet.

The diversity within Waimangu is astonishing. Enormous hot-water springs burst straight from the earth, while bubbling sulfurous vents, mini-geysers, and cascading waterfalls punctuate the walk. Against all odds, rare and unusual plant life thrives here, adapted to the heat and mineral-rich soil. Brilliantly colored microbiology paints the terrain in unexpected hues—rusty reds, vivid greens, and electric blues—creating patterns that feel almost otherworldly. Along the steaming lakes, ducks and birds glide calmly through a landscape shaped by fire and water.

Rotorua is a place where New Zealand’s natural forces and cultural heritage come together in powerful ways. A stroll through the Government Gardens reveals the city’s elegant 19th-century roots, with beautifully landscaped grounds and historic buildings that reflect Rotorua’s early role as a spa town. The ornate Tudor-style Bath House and the nearby historic Tea House speak to a time when visitors arrived seeking the healing properties of geothermal waters, blending European architectural styles with a setting shaped by steam and sulfur rising from the earth. These gardens remain a serene introduction to Rotorua’s layered past.

Equally compelling is Rotorua’s living Māori culture, which is not preserved as history but experienced as everyday life. Whakarewarewa is the legacy and home of the Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao people, who have been sharing their unique way of life with visitors from all around the world for over two hundred years.

Visiting a living Māori village offers insight into traditions, storytelling, and geothermal practices that have been passed down for generations. That connection continues at Wai Ariki, a Māori-owned geothermal spa resort that reimagines wellness through indigenous knowledge, ritual, and respect for the land.

As night falls, Rotorua reveals yet another side of itself on the Redwoods Treewalk, where suspension bridges glow softly among towering redwood trees. Walking high above the forest floor under illuminated canopies felt both grounding and magical—a perfect ending to a Kiwi vacation in a place where culture, nature, and history are deeply intertwined.