Riding the California Zephyr: A 6-Hour Train Journey from Denver to Glenwood Springs

After retiring in 2025, I decided it was finally time to tackle a longtime bucket list dream: seeing America by train. My first journey was the legendary Coast Starlight from Portland to Los Angeles. From my sleeper cabin, I watched snow-capped mountains, winding rivers, forests, and stretches of the Pacific Ocean glide past my window. Somewhere along the route, I discovered what seasoned rail travelers call “train mode,” which is the art of slowing down, relaxing, and savoring the journey itself. I was hooked. After a three-night stay in LA, I returned to Union Station for my add-on two-day rail adventure aboard the Southwest Chief from Los Angeles to Albuquerque. One year later, I was ready to achieve another bucket list goal: seeing the majestic Rocky Mountains by train aboard the famous Amtrak Zephyr. 

There are few train rides in America as spectacular as the journey aboard the Zephyr from Denver to Glenwood Springs. In just six hours, the route climbs from Denver’s urban skyline into the heart of the Rocky Mountains, passing historic mining towns, dramatic canyons, rushing rivers, snow-capped peaks, and some of Colorado’s most breathtaking scenery.

For travelers who love slow travel, panoramic views, and classic rail journeys, this route is unforgettable.

Departing Denver Union Station

My trip begins at historic Denver Union Station, one of the city’s architectural landmarks.

The station blends Beaux-Arts elegance with modern restaurants, coffee shops, and boutique spaces. Inside the grand hall, travelers gather beneath the famous “Travel by Train” sign before boarding the westbound Zephyr.

I arrive one hour before my 8:45 a.m. departure because I don’t want to be rushed. It is a little confusing to find where to board the Amtrak train because so many passengers are arriving on the light train. But a security officer directs me to Track 4.

There are already 10 people in line at 8 a.m. I am so glad that I arrived early, as I was able to board the train, drop off my carry-on luggage, set my backpack in my assigned seat, and then head to the observatory car.

This is where the fun begins. You can stroll up and down the aisle, try different seats, or just plop down. I know from my past experience riding the Coast Starlight that I want a single swivel seat at the front of the observatory car.

Two retirees from Texas (Andrea and Ed) soon join me, picking adjacent seats. We become fast friends as we discuss our love of train travel and why we chose the Zephyr. Andrea even offers to take a photo of me so I can text it to my friends who were following my train journey virtually!

As the train slowly leaves downtown Denver, the skyline fades, and the Front Range mountains begin to dominate the horizon. Within the first hour, the scenery transforms dramatically as the train begins climbing into the Rockies.

Climbing Through the Rocky Mountains

Observatory Car Seating Tip: Denver → Moffat Tunnel: The right side (of the observatory car) is usually more scenic for mountain climbs and the Front Range.

One of the most exciting parts of the route is the steep ascent through the mountains west of Denver. The Zephyr winds through forests, rocky cliffs, and narrow valleys that would be difficult to experience by car.

Passengers often gather in the observation car to take in panoramic views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Around every curve, another dramatic scene appears: towering pine forests, snow lingering on distant peaks, or rivers rushing beside the tracks. Our train rushes through small towns, like Eldorado Springs and Golden. Raindrops on the window show up in my photo.

Get Your Observatory Car Seat Early

I knew the observation car would be packed, so I found a seat immediately after I boarded. My seat could swivel, so I could continuously monitor the views on the left and right sides of the train.

The engineering along this section is remarkable. The train navigates steep grades, tunnels, and sweeping curves built more than a century ago to cross the Continental Divide.

Our conductor tells us our train will go through 32 tunnels. Each time the car goes dark. We can see only a pinprick of light in the distance.

I like where the tracks curve through the mountains, as I can watch the front of the train traverse the trails. It can feel like that train is separate from our observatory train. Frequently, the tracks parallel a gushing stream. It gurgles past the grove of pine trees and piles of rocks.

Everyone cheers as the train passes a yellow house with a green roof sitting in a field. I have to rush to photograph this house before the train rushes past it. I can’t tell if it is a home or a church.

The observatory train has glass windows that rise to the roof, so you can see the mountain tops framed in their view. I can see snow layered on rocks even though it is late May.

We now enter the 6.2-mile Moffat Tunnel. The observatory train stays dark for a long stretch (about 15 minutes).

Fraser-Winter Park: Gateway to Ski Country

Tip: After Moffat Tunnel / Fraser → Granby: In the observatory train, both sides are beautiful, with a slight advantage often on the right.

One of the early mountain stops is Fraser and nearby Winter Park, known for skiing, hiking, and outdoor recreation. During winter, skiers board carrying gear for the famous Winter Park Resort.

The conductor calls the Winter Park station stop. We have three minutes to step off the train for a “fresh air break.” I decide to go down to the snack bar to buy a coffee. It costs $3.

I also peek inside the dining car, which is now set for lunch. Anyone who purchases a sleeper ticket gets free meals in the dining car for the duration of their ticket.

Even in spring and summer, the mountain scenery here feels alpine and rugged. Tall evergreens, mountain meadows, and distant peaks create postcard-worthy views from the train windows. I see a lot of snow stripes and snow hats on the mountains.

At two hours into the trip, the train slugs quickly past small towns. Cabins perch high among the fir trees. Occasionally, I see a wooden house nestling under a mountain range.

I keep turning my head left and right in my swiveling chair so I can see the landscape and small cabins on both sides of the observatory car.

Granby and Open Mountain Valleys

Tip: Granby → Dotsero: Choose the left side for scenic river valleys and wide mountain views.

The route continues through Granby, where the scenery opens into broad mountain valleys framed by dramatic peaks. Ranchlands, rivers, and forests replace dense urban development entirely.

I see the cattle grazing at a nearby farm. The Colorado River runs alongside the train tracks at regular intervals.

All passengers are in a “train bubble.” Life slows down, and you just start meditating on the river, trees, and rocks. We pass two anglers who wade in the river to fish. It is almost impossible to capture these “memories” as the train travels so fast.

I can’t tell you how excited I was when we passed a ranch where cattle were grazing. Everyone pulled out their mobile phone to snap a photo. I am so frustrated when I try to zoom in with my iPhone 17 and then miss the shot.

I love the stretch where the Colorado River runs parallel to our train. We can see the white foam, rushing current, and glistening rocks. It is raining now, so the upper windows bead up with raindrops. But I can still see the mountain silhouette. The woman sitting next to me constantly raises her mobile phone to take a scenic photo.

This section feels quieter and more remote. Travelers may spot fly fishermen along the rivers or small cabins tucked into the hillsides.

The constantly changing landscape is one reason the Zephyr is considered one of America’s most scenic rail routes.

Glenwood Canyon: The Most Spectacular Stretch

Tip: Glenwood Canyon approaching Glenwood: The left side is fantastic for Colorado River views, while the right side often hugs dramatic cliff walls.

The highlight of the trip arrives as the train enters Glenwood Canyon, a stunning canyon carved by the Colorado River. We are following the river now, filled with raft boats. The passengers on a white raft boat wave at our train. I wave back.

Here, the tracks hug the river’s edge beneath towering canyon walls. Massive cliffs rise dramatically on both sides while whitewater rapids rush beside the train. Because much of the canyon is inaccessible by regular roads, the train offers views many visitors never see.

Passengers frequently move between both sides of the observation car, trying to capture photographs of the canyon’s waterfalls, rock formations, and winding river bends. The clay cliffs are densely populated with fir trees.

The landscape looks like a quilt—clay interspersed with green and grey rocky soil. The river runs grey. I can see the ripples of a reflected mountainscape. Tufts of brush cover the ground near the river. I will never forget this portion of the trip.

Our conductor announces that our train will arrive in Glenwood Springs in 10 minutes. I decide to go down the steps to collect my carry-on bag. This was a good decision. I get a chance to chat with her.

The conductor opens the window to look out. I get a chance to talk to her about her job with Amtrak. She tells me that this trip never gets old. The scenery still amazes her.

Arrival in Glenwood Springs

The train finally arrives in Glenwood Springs, a rugged mountain town known for hot springs, outdoor adventure, and historic architecture. After I step off the train, I walk into the Glenwood Springs train station to see its historic interior.

I step into a beautifully preserved railroad-era space with high ceilings, warm wood details, and large windows overlooking the Colorado River. The station’s classic architecture reflects Glenwood Springs’ long history as a Colorado resort town and rail destination. This feels worlds away from a modern airport terminal.

The station sits within walking distance of downtown, making Glenwood Springs one of the easiest Colorado mountain destinations to explore without a car. Visitors can stroll along the riverfront, soak in the famous hot springs, ride the gondola to Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park, or simply enjoy the mountain atmosphere.

After six hours aboard the California Zephyr, stepping into Glenwood Springs feels like arriving in another world. My legs feel like putty after sitting for nearly six hours. But I am eager to explore this city shaped by rivers, mountains, rail history, and Colorado’s rugged beauty.

Why the California Zephyr Is One of America’s Great Train Journeys

The Denver-to-Glenwood Springs route offers something increasingly rare in modern travel: the opportunity to slow down and truly experience the landscape.

Unlike highways or airports, trains allow travelers to relax, walk around, enjoy panoramic windows, and watch the Rocky Mountains unfold mile by mile. From historic rail engineering to dramatic canyon scenery, every stretch of the journey feels cinematic.

For travelers seeking one of the most scenic train rides in the United States, the California Zephyr delivers an unforgettable Rocky Mountain experience.

Planning your own California Zephyr adventure? Here are answers to some common questions about train travel through the Rocky Mountains.

Frequently Asked Questions About the California Zephyr Train Ride

Is coach travel on the California Zephyr affordable?

Yes. Coach tickets on the Amtrak California Zephyr are quite affordable, especially if you book early. I paid $113.40 for the round-trip Denver-Glenwood Springs journey as I booked in February (four months in advance). This included my senior discount! It made train travel an accessible way to experience the Rocky Mountains. Many travelers choose coach seats for daytime scenic routes, such as the trip between Denver and Glenwood Springs.

Is the California Zephyr route from Denver to Glenwood Springs scenic?

Yes. The stretch between Denver and Glenwood Springs is considered one of the most scenic train rides in the United States. The train winds through the Rocky Mountains, follows the Colorado River, passes deep canyons, and travels through remote mountain towns that are difficult to see by car.

Which side of the train has the best views from Denver to Glenwood Springs?

Many travelers prefer the right side of the train when leaving Denver because of the dramatic mountain and river views through parts of the route. However, the observation car offers panoramic windows on both sides, making it easy to enjoy the scenery throughout the journey. I have added my personal tips for where to sit in the article.

What is the observation car like on the California Zephyr?

The observation car features floor-to-ceiling windows, swivel-style seats, and a relaxed social atmosphere. Passengers often gather there to watch the changing scenery, take photos, and meet fellow travelers. Seats are first-come, first-served, so arriving early helps during busy travel periods.

Can you buy food on the California Zephyr?

Yes. The California Zephyr has a café car with sandwiches, snacks, drinks, coffee, and light meals available for purchase. Sleeper car passengers also have access to dining car meals included with their ticket. A coach passenger can purchase the sit-down meal if space is available. The lunch cost $25 on my trip.

Is train travel slower than flying?

Yes, but that is part of the experience. Train travel allows passengers to slow down, enjoy the scenery, walk around freely, and experience destinations more relaxed. Many travelers describe long-distance rail journeys as part transportation and part vacation.