11 Best Places to Visit in Edinburgh: A Self-Guided Walking Tour

I first visited Scotland’s capital at age 25 during my first trip to Europe. I still remember it. Edinburgh Castle glowed at sunset. I stayed in a historic hotel, tried haggis, walked the Royal Mile, and bought Royal Doulton china.

Forty-one years later, I returned at age 66. The city welcomed me back. I had only one day, but I made the most of it. I joined a free walking tour with 15 stops. I visited the Writers’ Museum, posed beside famous statues, toured the Scottish Parliament, and ended the day with afternoon tea.

Edinburgh had changed since my first visit. Some things never do. The castle still overlooks the city. The Royal Mile still draws visitors from around the world. The city’s history, architecture, and walkable streets remain as memorable as ever.

Whether you have one day or several, Edinburgh rewards curious travelers. Every walk tells a story. Here are my favorite places to experience Scotland’s capital.

Edinburgh Castle

Let’s start our self-guided walking tour at the highest point! Edinburgh’s must-see attraction is perched dramatically on Castle Rock. Highlights include the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and St. Margaret’s Chapel.

But I will never forget the panoramic views I saw as a 25-year-old. The castle’s ramparts offered sweeping views across Edinburgh. I looked down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace. But truthfully, the Georgian elegance of New Town blew me away.

There is no city in Europe where you can make yourself so much at home as in Edinburgh.”—Robert Louis Stevenson

Castles are dark, musty places. Sometimes they even depress you. But there is no better time tunnel than to walk through Edinburgh Castle. I felt the ghost of Mary Queen of Scots nudging me around every corner.

The Writers’ Museum

The Writers’ Museum celebrates Scotland’s three literary giants: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. Since I majored in English and journalism in college, there was no question that I needed to visit this museum!

Set inside a 17th-century house, it displays manuscripts, portraits, rare books, and personal belongings. The museum traces each writer’s life and lasting influence. Admission is free. Take your time. Before leaving, walk through Makar’s Court. The courtyard features stone inscriptions honoring Scotland’s most celebrated writers.

Royal Mile

After visiting the castle, walk the historic mile connecting Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace. Explore medieval closes, churches, shops, pubs, and centuries of Scottish history.

My desire to purchase an eight-piece bone china table setting consumed me when I first visited Edinburgh. Walking in and out of specialty china stores, I surveyed all my choices. But I finally came back to my original choice: Royal Doulton’s Wild Strawberry pattern. I still use my delicate bone china teapot to serve afternoon tea for my family and friends.

Pirrie’s Close Art Installation

While you are walking down the Royal Mile, watch for a dark alleyway. In Edinburgh, a “close” is a narrow alley or passageway that runs off the Royal Mile. Many closes date back to the medieval period and originally led to homes, workshops, inns, or courtyards. Some are only a few feet wide, giving Old Town much of its historic character.

Pirrie’s Close hides one of the Royal Mile’s most unexpected art installations. Laser-cut steel panels line the walls and ceiling, illustrating stories from the surrounding neighborhood.

Look closely to spot Deacon Brodie’s keys, Edinburgh landmarks, native wildlife, and symbols celebrating the area’s schools and residents. The artwork turns a simple medieval close into an outdoor gallery.

The laser-cut steel panels were installed in 2021 as part of Edinburgh World Heritage’s Twelve Closes Project, which sought to make historic closes more inviting. 

“The project was designed in response to the condition of many of the closes in the Old Town. These steep, narrow alleyways are a critical feature of the city’s character and inform the designation of Edinburgh’s urban core as a World Heritage Site,” according to Edinburgh World Heritage.

Bakehouse Close

Bakehouse Close is one of the best-preserved closes on the Royal Mile. Dating to the 16th century, it features a cobblestone path. The weathered stone buildings and picturesque courtyard look much as they did centuries ago. The name derives from the bakeries that once operated there.

Today, Bakehouse Close is famous for fans of the TV series Outlander. This close was used as a filming location on the hit TV series, doubling as 18th-century Edinburgh.

Scottish Parliament

Our next stop is the Scottish Parliament. This modernist building contrasts sharply with Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town. Designed by Spanish architect Enric Miralles, the building opened in 2004 after Scotland regained its own parliament.

Its bold design features curved roofs, irregular windows, and stone, oak, and granite inspired by the Scottish landscape. Whether admired or debated, the building has become one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive landmarks.

Don’t miss the free visitor exhibition inside the Scottish Parliament. Interactive displays explain how Scotland’s Parliament works and trace the country’s democratic history. Large windows frame views of Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat. The exhibition also highlights the building’s innovative design and the role of the Parliament in modern Scotland.

Salisbury Crags

As you exit the Parliament building, you will face a wall of green. This is Salisbury Crags, which is the dramatic cliff face in Holyrood Park. The cliffs form the western edge of the ancient volcano whose highest point is Arthur’s Seat. This extinct volcano rises above the city.

The towering cliffs were formed by volcanic activity more than 300 million years ago. Several walking trails lead to scenic overlooks with panoramic views of Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth. If you are willing to tackle this moderate hike, you’ll be rewarded with one of the best panoramic views in Britain.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Next stop is the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The residence remains the official Scottish home of the British monarch and welcomes visitors when the Royal Family is away. If time permits, tour the State Apartments and the haunting ruins of Holyrood Abbey.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse marks the eastern end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. Built around a 12th-century abbey, the palace combines medieval towers with elegant Baroque architecture. Its symmetrical stone façade surrounds a central courtyard. The ruins of Holyrood Abbey stand beside the palace.

Princes Street Gardens

This beautiful park separates the Old and New Towns. It’s one of the best places to photograph Edinburgh Castle. On this sunny June day, residents could be found soaking up the sun.

Princes Street Gardens is one of the places where Edinburghers gather. We saw university students eating lunch on the grass. People relaxing with coffee while enjoying the castle view. Musicians and street performers entertaining visitors. Office workers and tourists mixing with locals.

Tip: If time permits, you might want to buy a ticket to visit the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, one of the world’s premier botanical gardens. Admire the magnificent collections, woodland walks, rock gardens, and seasonal blooms. It’s an excellent escape from the busy city center.

Scott Monument

Scott Monument is adjacent to Princes Street Gardens. Climb the narrow spiral staircase inside the world’s largest monument dedicated to a writer for unforgettable city views. An adult ticket costs eight pounds. Visitors can climb 221 spiral steps to the top of the Scott Monument for sweeping views of Edinburgh. You can purchase tickets at the small kiosk at the base of the monument rather than online.

The narrow staircase leads to several viewing platforms overlooking Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh Castle, and Arthur’s Seat. Anyone with claustrophobia or significant mobility issues probably shouldn’t do this climb.

The Willow Tea Rooms

Our self-guided city walking tour ends at The Willow Tea Rooms on Princes Street. It was inspired by the famous Glasgow tea rooms created by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Scotland’s most celebrated architect and designer.

The Edinburgh location recreates his distinctive Art Nouveau interiors while offering views of Edinburgh Castle. It was the ideal place to enjoy afternoon tea while overlooking Edinburgh Castle.

You will feel like royalty when the waitress ushers you to your table. Fine linen covers the table. You look out at the city’s modern buildings, but you are cossetted in the past. Sit tall in your high-backed chair. Notice the stylized roses and willow leaf motifs.

Our waitress served us a plate of sandwiches on a mixture of white and wholemeal bread. The selection included Scottish smoked salmon and butter, free-range Scottish egg mayonnaise and watercress, honey ham and mustard, and cucumber with cream cheese. We could choose between plain or fruit scones accompanied by clotted cream and jam. Our dessert included homemade shortbread rounds and a choice of cake.

Explore More of Scotland

Edinburgh is just the beginning of Scotland’s story. Continue your journey with these guides to nearby castles, historic towns, and scenic destinations.

• 10 Best Things to Do in St. Andrews: Discover Scotland’s famous golf town, medieval cathedral ruins, and university where Prince William met Kate Middleton.
• Tour Stirling Castle: Explore one of Scotland’s grandest castles and learn about Mary, Queen of Scots, and William Wallace.

Final Thoughts

Some places stay with you for decades. Edinburgh is one of them. One of the joys of being a traveler is that you learn new things about a destination on every visit. I knew I loved Edinburgh as a young adult. But I cherish Edinburgh as a retired person.

Edinburgh blends centuries of history with a lively modern culture. One moment you’re exploring a medieval close. The next you’re touring the contemporary Scottish Parliament or relaxing in Princes Street Gardens.

Most attractions lie within walking distance, making the city easy to explore without a car. Whether you have one day or several, these 11 places showcase the best of Scotland’s capital. Take your time, look down every close, and enjoy the surprises waiting around each corner.