Walking through the walled city of Lucca feels like stepping inside another century. Massive Renaissance walls surround a maze of cobblestone streets. Stroll slowly to see medieval houses, elegant churches, and quiet piazzas. Admire monuments to the people who shaped this Tuscan city.
I loved simply wandering through Lucca, looking up at its historic buildings and discovering something unexpected around nearly every corner.
Unlike many Italian cities where I arrived with a long list of famous sights to see, Lucca was more about the experience of being there. First, I walked its historic walls that wrap around the city.
Next, I wandered through its narrow streets and admired its architecture. You’ll soon understand why this beautifully preserved walled city became one of my favorite stops in Tuscany’s Garfagnana Region.
Table of Contents
Roman History
Lucca’s name derives from the Celtic-Ligurian word Close.
Recent archaeological discoveries suggest an Etruscan origin for the city. But the Romans left the most evident traces of their passage. Two examples are the foundation of the walled city and the octagonal layout of the streets.
Medieval Lucca
In the Middle Ages, Lucca became an important communication route due to the Francigena road of pilgrims. Also, silk merchants transported goods from the Mediterranean to the markets of Northern Europe.
“The weavers and merchants of Lucca enjoyed moments of great notoriety for the refinement of the fabrics they traded and political influence at the courts of Europe.”—Lucca Tourism Office
Republic of Lucca
Lucca became a small but secure Republic during the Renaissance, as the new, imposing city walls protected its residents from the world until the arrival of the Bonapartes.
I learned that Elisa was Princess of Lucca in the early 19th century. She was followed by Maria Luisa of Bourbon. Both worked to modernize the city, which had long been isolated.
Walls of Lucca
The walls of Lucca embraced me like a hug when I visited. Lucca’s Renaissance walls completely encircled the historic center. I walked along the walls and then descended into the maze of medieval streets.
“The walls . . . completely enclose the historic center, accompanying the visitor on a circular path made of glimpses, silences, unexpected views and continuous beauty.”—Lucca Tourism Office
I love exploring Europe’s historic walled cities, such as Basel and Padua. I’m fascinated by the walls and fortifications built centuries ago to protect residents from attack. But the walled city of Lucca especially captivated me because its historic walls don’t simply surround the city—they have become part of everyday life.
Explore Medieval City
Instead of booking a walking tour, I grabbed a map from the tourist office and started walking. Sometimes the best way to discover a city is on a photo safari. I kept my iPhone handy so I could take architectural photos—doors, walls, staircases, or rooftops.
I discovered that Lucca’s narrow streets, towers, shutters, and stonework made Lucca feel different from larger Tuscan destinations, such as Pisa.
Tour Lucca’s Churches
Lucca is sometimes nicknamed the “City of 100 Churches.” I wandered in and out of historic churches that I discovered on my trek. Famous churches include the Cattedrale di San Martino, the Basilica of San Frediano, and the Church of Santi Paolino e Donato.
But my favorite was Chiesa di San Michele in Foro (Church of San Michele in Foro), which stands on the site of Lucca’s ancient Roman forum. This is why “in Foro” is listed in its name. The present church dates back to 1070. Its spectacular façade is primarily “Pisan Romanesque,” with four tiers of arcaded loggias.
The church’s patron saint is St. Michael the Archangel, who defeated the dragon. This figure also crowns the church’s elaborate façade.
Legend says that on bright days you can see a green sparkle gleaming on the statue, which some believe may be an emerald nestled somewhere in the statue, but the stone has never been found.”—Visit Tuscany
I think Chiesa di San Michele is one of the strongest examples of how Roman, medieval, and Renaissance Lucca overlap within the walled city.
Statue of Francesco Burlamacchi
The city commemorates Francesco Burlamacchi (1498–1548), a major political figure in Lucca’s history. I saw his monument in Piazza San Michele, directly in front of San Michele in Foro. Sculptor Ulisse Cambi created the statue. It has stood in the square since 1863.
This merchant sought an alliance of the independent cities of Tuscany and central Italy. Because his plan challenged the Medici’s power, he was executed.
Meet Lucca’s Most Famous Son: Giacomo Puccini
I discovered the statue of Giacomo Puccini in Piazza Cittadella. He became one of Italy’s greatest opera composers. His best-known works include La Bohème, Tosca, Madama Butterfly, and Turandot.
Italian sculptor Vito Tongiani created the bronze statue of Giacomo Puccini, which was unveiled in Piazza Cittadella in 1994, across from the composer’s birthplace.
His birthplace is just off this little square and is now the Puccini Museum. Tongiani posed Puccini seated in an armchair, one leg crossed, holding a cigar.
Spend Time in the Piazzas
I recommend searching out Lucca’s piazzas. Piazza San Michele occupies the site of Lucca’s ancient Roman forum. Stare up at the bell tower of San Michele in Foro, one of Lucca’s most important Romanesque churches.
The tower dates largely from the 12th–13th centuries. Old residential buildings crowd around it. The scene reinforces the idea of Lucca as a city where medieval architecture is woven into everyday street life.
Exploring Beyond Lucca
My visit to Lucca was part of a much bigger adventure in northern Tuscany. I spent a week hiking in the mountainous Garfagnana region, discovering medieval villages and national parks. These quiet landscapes were far removed from Tuscany’s busiest tourist destinations. Read about my walking holiday in Tuscany’s Garfagnana region.
One of my favorite experiences was staying at a family-run Tuscan agriturismo near Lucca. After long days of walking, we returned to homemade meals and local wine. Staying at a working Italian farm helped me understand the rhythms of family life. Discover what it was like to stay at an agriturismo in northern Tuscany.
I visited northern Tuscany in October, when the forests and mountains were turning brilliant shades of gold, orange, and red. If you are considering an autumn trip, read about my favorite Italian leaf-peeping excursions in the Garfagnana region.
FAQs
Is Lucca worth visiting?
Yes. Lucca is one of Tuscany’s best-preserved walled cities. Visitors can explore historic churches, medieval streets, lively piazzas, and the famous Renaissance walls surrounding the historic center.
Can you walk on the city walls in Lucca?
Yes. Lucca’s walls have been transformed into a wide, tree-lined promenade. You can walk or bike the roughly 4-kilometer loop while enjoying views of the historic city.
What is Lucca best known for?
Lucca is best known for its remarkably intact city walls, Romanesque churches, medieval towers, and beautiful historic center. It is also the birthplace of composer Giacomo Puccini.
Does Lucca have a Roman amphitheater?
Lucca has the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, built on the remains of an ancient Roman amphitheater. The original arena is gone, but surrounding buildings follow its distinctive oval shape.
How much time do you need in Lucca?
You can see many of Lucca’s highlights in one day, especially since the historic center is compact and walkable. Staying overnight gives you more time to explore the walls, churches, piazzas, and quieter streets at a relaxed pace.
Final Thoughts
I didn’t count how many museums, churches, or historic sites I visited in Lucca. Instead, I simply traveled back in time, from the remnants of an ancient Roman city to the streets of a medieval walled city.
I think that is why Lucca worked so well for me. It wasn’t about racing from attraction to attraction or checking landmarks off a list. The pleasure was simply wandering—following narrow streets into quiet piazzas, admiring centuries-old buildings, and eventually finding my way back to the city walls.
Sometimes the best way to experience a place is to forget the checklist and simply walk. Lucca is that kind of city.
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