Oxford: City Tour Highlights

Oxford is the name of a British city and a dictionary. But for English majors, Oxford is a hallowed place where famous authors like C. S. Lewis and J. R. R. Tolkien wrote their novels.

It doesn’t surprise me that such famous children’s book authors would squeeze themselves into this rabbit’s warren of dusty Gothic buildings, college greens, and cobblestone streets. Traipsing through Oxford reminded me of my Trinity College tour in Dublin.

Oxford let me too escape in an otherworldly realm of libraries, bookstores, and dormitories. Like the four siblings (Ann, Martin, Rose, and Peter) in The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, I crept into a literary Narnia in Oxford.

Bus Station

My arrival in this esteemed city reminded me Lewis’ four protagonists who were sent to the countryside to avoid being hurt in the bombing raids in World War II.

But instead of a train, I boarded a bus at Heathrow Airport, packed with jet-lagged travelers seeking the cheapest way to travel to Oxford. I didn’t know that I would walk back in time when I took my city tour. There are regular buses which run from London as well as Heathrow and Gatwick airports. It was a quick 10-minute walk through side streets and alleys to reach the town center.

Oxford is ideal for a long weekend getaway if your schedule permits. But I only had 24 hours to explore the city. I also didn’t realize that everything shuts down on January 1—a national holiday—so I couldn’t climb up church towers, tour Oxford colleges, or roam English gardens as hoped.

Walking Tour Options

On New Year’s Eve, I found three groups offering city highlight tours: a free walk (tip later) group, an Oxford tour company, and the Bodleian Libraries’ fully qualified Green Badge Guides tour. 

I chose the library’s two-hour (20 pound) City of Oxford Walking Tour because I hoped it would be bookish (because English majors are nerdy). The tour promised we would walk “in the footsteps of famous authors, scientists, politicians and film stars.”

(In partnership with the Oxford Guild of Tour Guides, Bodleian Library offers three walking tours: the city walking tour, the Literary Oxford walking tour, and the family walking tour.) 

Bodleian Libraries’ City Tour

My goal was to learn the history of the oldest university in the English-speaking world in 120 minutes. Luckily, I chose the only official University of Oxford walking tour as my guide had to cram a lot of facts into our heads.

Our group included a married couple from North Carolina, a British family of three, and me. The American contingent needed a lot of help with Oxford traditions.

Oxford Colleges

So let’s explain one of the most confusing things to non-British people—Oxford students belong to both a large university and a small college community. 

This means that students must seek acceptance to a college that will serve as their dormitory and dining hall as well as provide support services and pastoral care.  

Oxford University is home to 39 colleges. John de Balliol formed the first college in 1263. His college bears his name. 

Other examples of Oxford colleges are Oriel College (1326), Brasenose College (1509), and Worcester College (1714).

But I know that Magdalen College is quite famous among “Potterheads,” as scenes from the Harry Potter movies were filmed. Magdalen College was founded in 1458.

City Architecture

On my walking tour, I learned how Oxford grew from a small market town to become the city of dreaming spires.

“From the towering spires of Gothic cathedrals to the symmetry of Neoclassical buildings, Oxford’s architecture tells the story of centuries of cultural, intellectual, and artistic evolution.” (Visit Oxford)

My head was always gazing upward as we meandered across the city to see the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin, the Sheldonian Theatre, and the Radcliffe Camera.

Weston Library

Our tour began at the Weston Library, so you should plan to arrive 30 minutes early to see its reading rooms, view the special exhibits, and grab a “cuppa” at the Headley Tearoom.

Sheldonian Theatre

Our first stop was the Sheldonian Theatre which is at the heart of the medieval University of Oxford. The signature golden stone appeared to glow in the late winter afternoon. 

Designed by the young architect Christopher Wren (who was a Professor of Astronomy at Oxford), he conceived a building styled as a Roman theatre but which included a roof. He is famous for designing a roof truss able to span the required 70 feet.

We circled the building and gazed in wonder at the ceremonial head of the University of Oxford. Our guide told us that University of Oxford degrees are conferred at graduation ceremonies held in the Sheldonian Theatre.

Can you imagine the pride of receiving your diploma in this hallowed hall? It makes me shiver. 

Radcliffe Camera

Our next stop was The Radcliffe Camera. James Gibbs designed this 18th-century, Palladian-style academic library and the reading rooms.

The Radcliffe Camera is an iconic Oxford landmark and a working library, part of the central Bodleian Library complex.

Sadly, The Radcliffe Camera is closed to members of the public, except those on library guided tours. (Due to the holiday, I couldn’t take the 30-minute tour to see the beautiful domed reading room.)

History of Bodleian Libraries

You’ll also learn about the history of Bodleian Libraries, which is one of the oldest in Europe and second in size only to the British Library in Britain.

It was first opened to scholars in 1602. Together, the Bodleian Libraries hold over 13 million printed items. 

“There are few greater temptations on earth than to stay permanently at Oxford in meditation, and to read all the books in the Bodleian.” – Hilaire Belloc

Most Oxford scholars know the Bodleian Libraries as simply “the Bod.”

Mary’s Passage

I would have been completely lost without a map as our circuitous tour next led us across campus to St. Mary’s Passage.

Often called Radcliffe Street in the 19th century, this passage runs northwards from the High Street between Brasenose College and the University Church of St Mary the Virgin. 

Although we didn’t have time to stop for teatime, I was told that the Vaults & Garden cafe is a great place for tea and scones. 

University Church

Our tour included a stop outside the University Church. St Mary’s was at the heart of the growing medieval university. “Standing in the centre of Oxford, it is the spiritual heart of the oldest university in Britain,” according to the church’s website.

Our guide told us that the oldest part of the church that remains is the tower. It was built in the 1270s. In the early 14th century, the decorated spire was added; it is one of Oxford’s best-known landmarks.

The Divinity School

As part of our tour, we received a ticket to go inside The Divinity School. This extraordinary building once functioned as a classroom for students. 

It features a stone-carved ceiling. In the 1480s, William Orchard designed the lierne vaultings, which included 455 bosses. I could have stared for hours at the ceiling.

The furnishings date back to 1669. They are reminiscent of church pews. 

(Fun fact: You may recognize this august room as the infirmary in the Harry Potter films.)

Christ Church

We traipsed down Logic Lane, past buildings and homes built over 500 years ago. Then we walked down a forest path and passed sleeping winter gardens.

Suddenly, the wide-open green space was packed with tourists posing for pictures. We had reached the Christ Church Meadow, the iconic scene featuring the buildings of Christ Church and Oxford’s famous skyline as a backdrop.

Our guide had no choice but to photograph each of us.

The Harry Potter walking tours also include a stop at Christ Church College to see the dining hall, cloisters, and Bodley Staircase featured in the first two films.

(Fun fact: Hogwarts’ Great Hall was inspired by the design of Christ Church College’s Great Hall.)

The Covered Market

Our guide ended our tour at the Oxford City Council Covered Market. You’ll see this market located on Market Street.

This historic indoor bazaar features over 50 specialist independent traders. 

“The market dates back to the 1770s and has become famous for being one of the oldest continually operating markets in the country.”

The Market celebrated its 250th anniversary in 2024.

It is packed with cafes, pubs, flowers, toiletries, hats, jewelry, artisan grocers, and boutique clothing. The Covered Market is now open in the evenings (Thursday through Saturday).

Epilogue

No visit to England is complete without visiting this storied city. It is my Narnia.

“ … Oxford still remains the most beautiful thing in England, and nowhere else are life and art so exquisitely blended, so perfectly made one.” – Oscar Wilde