Revised August 26, 2026
When I travel through Italy, I want to experience more than famous cities, museums, and churches. I want to discover the countryside, meet local families, and linger over homemade meals. Staying at a Tuscany agriturismo offered me a glimpse into this slower rhythm of Italian life.
An agriturismo is a working farm that also welcomes overnight guests. Instead of checking into a traditional hotel, I stayed with an Italian family in the countryside, surrounded by gardens, farm animals, and mountains.
My first agriturismo experience took me to a small farm in northern Tuscany’s Garfagnana region near Lucca. I arrived in October 2017 as part of a weeklong hiking trip. I quickly discovered that the farm would become much more than simply a place to sleep after a long day of hiking.
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What Was My First Impression of a Tuscany Agriturismo?
From the moment we arrived on this chilly, dark Saturday night, I felt unloosed and cut off from my city life. The farm nestled in the hollow of a rolling green lawn. The long curving driveway took us past groves of fruit trees and deciduous trees.
The mountains hugged the horizon, with northern Tuscany surrounded by the striking peaks of the Alpi Apuane and the Apennine Mountains. I saw smoke spilling out of the chimney. Blackness surrounded us except for the stars in the sky and the light in a few windows.
Before dinner, I settled into my bedroom, which I shared for a week with a fellow American hiker. I quickly unpacked my suitcase because we were already late for dinner due to delays at Pisa airport.
When we walked outside, we joined a procession of hikers walking a stone path down for our dinner. I heard my stomach rumble. The crisp autumn night made me crave something warm like zuppa (soup).
What Is a Communal Dinner Like at a Tuscany Agriturismo?
One of my favorite memories of staying at a Tuscany agriturismo was gathering around the table each evening for a communal dinner.
Our table seated all 15 hikers in my group—13 Brits and two Americans ranging in age from their late 20s to early 70s. For the next week, we would share our meals together like famiglia. Strangers on the first night gradually became friends.
Dinner was meant to be enjoyed slowly. We passed rustic bread and olive oil around the table, followed by garden vegetables and generous plates of pasta topped with beef ragù. Carafes of red and white wine completed our Tuscan meal.
What Food Did We Eat at the Agriturismo?
The rules are strict for a property to be classified as an agriturismo in Italy. It must be connected to a working farm, with agricultural activities remaining central to the business. Food served to guests also emphasizes products from the farm and surrounding region.
This farm-to-table tradition became one of my favorite parts of our stay. We ate homemade strawberry and blackberry preserves, Tuscan farro soup, fresh eggs, and seasonal vegetables. And, of course, we consumed generous quantities of delicious wine produced from the farm’s own vines.
Fueling Our Long Daily Hikes
The food wasn’t fancy. It was simple, hearty, and connected to the surrounding countryside. During the week, we enjoyed homemade strawberry and blackberry preserves, Tuscan farro soup, fresh eggs and seasonal vegetables. After hiking eight to 10 miles through the mountains of northern Tuscany, I rarely turned down a second helping.
But the communal dinner offered something more memorable than the food. Each evening gave us time to talk about our day’s hike and get to know each other. We would laugh over shared adventures and fiascos. Eating together became part of the agriturismo experience—not simply the meal at the end of the day.
What Is Life Like on a Tuscany Agriturismo?
The next morning I woke early so I could explore the farm before we went hiking. The crowing rooster was my alarm clock. I marveled that I would eat eggs all week produced by the farm’s own chickens. I liked to stand on the hill and just watch them clucking away.
Another delight was meeting the Braccicorti farm cats. The striking white cat had a partial black mask and pale pinkish-white ears. The tortoiseshell cat followed me with her olive green eyes. I spent a week trying to persuade them that my lap was a great place to cuddle. I rotated to different locations, including chairs, recliners, grass, and near the pool, desperately seeking their attention.
Can You Visit Lucca from a Tuscany Agriturismo?
One of the advantages of staying in northern Tuscany is the opportunity to explore nearby historic towns. Lucca was a highlight for me. Enclosed by its remarkable Renaissance walls, the city invited me to slow down and simply wander through its narrow streets, piazzas, churches, and medieval neighborhoods.
I especially loved exploring the walled city of Lucca on foot. Instead of rushing from one attraction to another, I could experience the city at my own pace. If you are staying at an agriturismo in northern Tuscany, consider setting aside a day for Lucca. Read my guide to the walled city of Lucca to plan your visit.
FAQs
What is an agriturismo in Italy?
An agriturismo is a working Italian farm that welcomes overnight guests. Depending on the property, guests may enjoy farm-fresh meals, local wine, outdoor activities, and a glimpse of rural Italian life.
Is staying at a Tuscany agriturismo worth it?
Yes, especially if you want to experience Tuscany beyond its famous cities. An agriturismo offers a chance to enjoy the countryside, local food, and a slower pace of life.
Do you need a car to stay at a Tuscany agriturismo?
It depends on the location. Many agriturismos are in rural areas where a car is helpful. If you are traveling with an organized hiking or cycling tour, transportation may be included.
What food is served at a Tuscany agriturismo?
Meals often showcase ingredients produced on the farm or sourced locally. Depending on the season and property, you might enjoy fresh eggs, vegetables, homemade preserves, olive oil, regional dishes, and local wine.
What can you do while staying at a Tuscany agriturismo?
Activities vary by property. Guests may hike, cycle, tour the farm, relax by a pool, enjoy long meals, visit nearby villages, or simply experience everyday life in the Tuscan countryside.
Final Thoughts
Over seven days, we came to know a lot about each other, from breakfast preferences—porridge or toast with jam—to favorite cocktails. Gin and tonics, or “GTs” to the Brits, were definitely a favorite. But equally important, we got to know the family who opened their home and hearts to welcome us.
Staying at a Tuscany agriturismo felt intimate and unlike anything I had experienced on my travels. I have stayed at many bed and breakfasts, but this was different. An agriturismo revealed another side of Italy—its bountiful land, homemade food, and warm-hearted people—in a way I could never experience at a hotel.
That is what I remember most. I came to northern Tuscany to hike its mountains, but I left remembering the people, the shared meals, and the simple pleasure of living on a Tuscan farm for a week.
