Hiking Parco dei Monaci (Monks Park) in southern Italy in July isn’t the smartest thing to do. The woodsy landscape is beautiful in Basilicata, but we almost die from the heat.
Our hike begins after disembarking from the local bus that connects Matera with Montescaglioso. The park is located 5 km south of Matera.
We trek through the little town to a gate. Down below we see farmlands and the Parco dei Monaci. In the distance, we can see the ancient city of Matera.
The Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The prehistoric Sassi caves and sandstone homes are stacked along the cliffs.
Sheep
Down below the cultivated fields are baking in the morning sun. It is nearly 90 degrees by 9:30 am at Parco dei Monaci. Suddenly I hear the sound of bleating sheep. Down below a pack of sheep are driven down a little country lane.
I see a horse at the back of the pack. The shepherd shouts at his flock. Time seems to turn backward. This scene reminds me of Italy’s rural history.
Agricultural Terrain
Our group heads down a gravel path leading towards the parkland. Clods of dirt and pebbles make it tricky to place my hiking boots. I lose my grip and fall down. Now we can still view Matera across the fields. It is southern Italy’s canyon city.
We will walk for the next six hours through farmers’ tilled fields and grasslands dyed to straw. As we meander through the park, we find forest paths lined with prickly creeping vines and weeds. The day’s destination is a lunch spot near the river where we can find respite from the blistering Italian sun.
“This rock habitat, wind-blown day and night, is an unspoiled landscape of great beauty.”
Tenuta Parco dei Monaci
Vegetation
Now we see a lot of vegetation on our hike. A common sight is a pear tree. Its limbs hang low with tiny green pears. A slight rosy yellow blush reveals where the pears turn toward the sun.
But the fruit feels hard to the touch. It is about eight weeks shy of its peak. Occasionally we seek shelter under a wide-brimmed pear tree that blocks the sun. Only then can we remove our straw hats that shield our faces.
When a breeze blows over our faces, it is sweet.
Rest Stop
At one point we stop to devour a bag of saffron yellow plums bought at the farmer’s outdoor market. In Matera, this outdoor market opens at 5 a.m. The farmers bring their boxes of fruits and vegetables to set up at stalls. Vendors sell a cornucopia of fruits-white and yellow peaches, apples, purple and green grapes, and yellow plums. They also sell all variety of vegetables. The cherry tomatoes are as sweet as fruit. They burst open in your mouth and spray hot sticky juice on your face.
Dehydration
Everyone feels dehydrated. This July heat is oppressive. Everyone craves water. Although we each bring 1.5-2 liters of water, we run out before completing our walk. The worst part is drinking the hot water in our thermos. It is not refreshing.
Our group begins to break down from the heat, causing many to lag behind and walk slower. By noon the sun is high in the sky and it is brutal. The air feels acrid at Parco dei Monaci.
The only respite is to pull a leaf from the wild herbs that grow near the tree roots. The wild thyme and oregano are pungent, perfuming the air. Our leader Marcella urges us forward. We are like the flock of sheep that lumber along the skinny road.
Picnic
We have to wind our way down the trail to reach an area to picnic. Sitting under the old oak provides shade for us. Marcella sets up the stone fence as a picnic table. We cover it with a plastic table cloth. Out of our backpacks comes fresh mozzarella, hard cheese, prosciutto ham, pepperoni, and a bag of homemade bread.
Jars of artichokes, pickled peppers, and tapenade are opened up. Marcella tells us to use napkins as our plates. We cover our rustic Italian bread with cheese and meat. Then we pop cherry tomatoes into our mouths. We chase it with a bite of creamy mozzarella. It is a feast for us.
Marcella uses her Swiss Army knife to cut open a cantaloupe. Our dessert is a slice of melon. Its rind curves up into a smile. And this is how we look after finishing our Italian picnic. We are beaming.
